Today, 29th September is Michaelmas. I learned
this equally from the wonderful Steiner School Kindergarten and late night
forays of distraction into River Cottage repeats. It’s traditionally a festival for marking the
change in seasons and of gathering the harvest to provide for the winter ahead;
more recently it celebrates the role of the archangel Michael as
dragon-slayer. As the long days of
summer draw into the dark nights of winter, it’s apparently an opportunity to
confront our own ‘inner dragons’ and finding the light and courage to see us
through to spring .
It got me to thinking – yes, my thought-processes are often
tenuous in the extreme – about the importance food plays in nurturing, giving
comfort and offering a focus for a social occasion. It has always been the case in Bangladesh! Never have I eaten so much, so well, and given
with such generosity as I have with both friends and strangers from Dhaka to
Bhola. Of course, some offerings – the crown
of the rooster, fish larvae, cows’ brains – are once in a lifetime ‘treats’,
others I would come back to again and again, and it’s often the simplest of
foods.
Here’s a menu, and a ‘toss it in and see’ sort of recipe for
a breakfast feast…
POTATO & PAPAYA
CURRY
Take a green-skinned papaya (the flesh is firmer) and a
couple of potatoes and chop them into equal sized pieces. Fry some garlic, onion, turmeric and any
other spices you fancy/are to hand, add the potato til cooked through, then
toss through the papaya. It’s a dry
curry that is perfect eaten with roti (chapati).
KITCHURI
2
handfuls rice
1 handful red lentils
1 handful any green leaf vegetables
couple of tablespoons of oil
water as required
1 handful red lentils
1 handful any green leaf vegetables
couple of tablespoons of oil
water as required
You
can also add in onion, garlic, ginger, tumeric and salt… and some versions
include egg or meat or chicken.
It’s
trial and error: heat the oil and coat the rice, add in the lentils, start to
add the water – and keep stirring. Keep adding more water as the rice and
lentils absorb it and once they are more or less soft and cooked, stir in the
leafy veg
CHA’
A
big spoon of black tea per person, add boiling water, add boiling condensed
milk (sweetened of course) and more sugar to taste (yes, really) and serve
very hot and strong – it should be caramel brown and almost able to hold a spoon
up… The faint-hearted can have ‘raw’ tea i.e. omit the condensed milk.
Okay,
it’s Jamie (on an off day) rather than Nigella but even when it all goes wrong,
the aroma wafting through the kitchen is the perfect way to imagine yourself in
Bangladesh - and definitely sufficient to slay those dragons!
Anne
x
